Ellen Johnson Sirleaf’s Liberia
November 17th 2010
Now we go see the president of this troubled but striving country. Then we leave it behind and head out to the airport. What do we possibly ask her? She knows the problems better than we do. She hears the complaints and pleas on a regular basis.
Better roads! And after a bone jarring 7 hour drive on the best highway in the country, slaloming between potholes, dipping down onto the dusty shoulders millimeters from young boys and old women who appear out of the bushes, who make their way down to homes and market stalls, we can attest. Roads are bad.
Healthcare! She tours the crowded hospitals She sees the good works of NGO’s and religious groups providing free care, vaccinations and treatment. She meets with the good doctors and nurses from around the world who give up their time to live in this hard place to help others, she meets the Liberians who have returned after exile to struggle to make a dent in an avalanche of Malaria, Typhus, Aids. She knows how difficult it is to rebuild a health care system that has been destroyed by 14 years of war.
She knows rape and sexual violence against women is epidemic. That is what doctors, nurses, NGO leaders, young women tell us. Why? War, superstition, sexism? All of the above and wrap in poverty and feelings of disempowerment when you are surrounded by a planet of wealth and watch your own wealth shipped overseas.
She knows the country has iron ore, vanadium and diamonds and rubber. She knows that even oil may be in the countries near future. But people are asking, when will the jobs come? Will her government negotiate a strong price for their resources? Will she be able to convince the multinationals to bring value added manufacturing to the rubber plants, to the iron ore mines? Senators and environmentalists said to us, why doesn’t Liberia manufacture rubber bands? Why doesn’t this nation have steel plants along with the iron ore mines? Why don’t we have furniture factories for the rubber wood, Hevea to westerners versed in the latest renewable resource? When will Liberia be a place where value is added, rather than a nation of resource extraction? It is a longstanding complaint from those nations who feed the developed world their resources. Can this President make a difference?
So how do you make headway?
Education! Schoolyards seem crowded, but the majority of people in this post war country are under 18. Where are the qualified teachers after a generation has been forced to flee schools in fear of their lives? Where do young men and women get the fees to pay for college? 1000 dollars a semester at private, Episcopalian, Cuttington University may seem reasonable to Americans paying 10 or 15 times that amount, but most Liberians are getting by on 2 dollars a day.
That must be a bitter pill considering how hard Liberians work. Many of the people we meet have two or three jobs, though jobs might be too strong a term. They get a little bit here and there, selling something, arranging something else, maybe driving or getting a small stipend from an NGO. There are small businesses everywhere; market stalls where people will sell single disposable razors ripped out of the bulk packaging from a wheelbarrow. Some people have bought fleets of motorcycle to use as cheap taxi’s. We have seen three on a bike, with packages too. There are business centers, where rows of tailors, all men in some locations, sit at old sewing machines and make shirts and pants out of cloth from Africa and places beyond. Women open pharmacies, rent the building, bring in sellers of tires, or rice, or cloth or generators or cell phones. There are many garages and shade tree mechanics. They have to be some of the best in the world to keep their cars running over Liberia’s strut crushing roads. People sell blocks of frozen, presumably fresh water. It is often their only source of clean water. Charcoal sellers abound. Charcoal is made the old fashioned way, limbs are chopped up and smoked in a dirt covered mound, then set out along the roadside in sacks covered in palm fronds, awaiting pickup for transport to the city. People use the charcoal for cooking in homes that don’t have electricity, running water or toilets. You can smell that reality on the streets and the towns, and don’t walk the beach barefoot. They are used as traditional facilities.
Yet, most everyone has a cell phone, from chiefs to small farmers, from market women to students. It is revolutionizing business and relationships in ways most never imagined. It may even be an instrument to defuse tensions. Maybe before we get to fisticuffs over this plot of land we both want to farm, let’s phone the tribal chief, shall we?
The motorcycle taxis are ubiquitous, driven by young men. They are even in a union of sorts and lobby the government for concessions. We are told most are ex-soldiers. Most have a hard look when you pass them, lined up one after another on a street. But most smile and if not too cool, even wave. And the rides are cheap. They got some money when they turned in their weapons. Some could afford these small motorbikes.
Maybe they turned in those weapons. And maybe there are still vast weapons caches that could be dug up when the warlords, some of whom now sit in the senate, decide they are not getting their piece of a peaceful Liberia. It is a concern of some of the experts, dismissed by others. The UN military mission is scheduled to wind down soon after the next elections. The new Liberian Army is still small, 2000 troops, and still training. The national police force is small, also still in training and under funded. Out on the border, the police chief has a small hot hut for a station, and to call his office rustic is to be polite.
As the next presidential election approaches in 2011, the second since the wars ended and civilian rule was put back in place, will the parties use the ballot box this time? Will the institutions that are supposed to keep order function as promised? We have heard from many who feel betrayed by President Sirleaf. Like President Obama, she offered so much hope after years of fighting, but she cannot meet everyone’s expectations. There is still resentment against the Americans who settled and formed the nation and who ran it as their own private club for 150 years. There is antipathy between tribal groups, who have their own languages, regions and power bases. Can she get each group to see themselves as a nation of Liberians and can that ideal be made a reality?
So what do we ask the president? She knows that market women barely make enough to provide for their families, that they live without running water, that clean water costs money, that electricity is for the fancy hotels and the big men with generators behind walls topped with razor wire and guarded by young men in security uniforms, themselves just eking out a living. She knows that though the world has forgiven Liberia its debt, more debt is coming. She knows that they don’t get enough from their rubber leases to Firestone, that the iron ore should be coming soon, but there won’t be enough jobs. She knows that oil is possible, but a long ways off, that diamonds can mined illegally and smuggled, that timber can be cut illegally, that a porous border invites drug traffickers. She knows that corruption is epidemic and sadly endemic. That is why she sacked all her ministers last week. She wants to only hire back the ones who are honest.
But that is a squishy idea in a struggling fourth world, not even third world, nation. The war destroyed a system that had already been a kleptocracy since its founding by Americans in the 1820’s. These free men and former slaves, supported by southerners who wanted them gone lest they foment a rebellion, supported by congress to the tune of 100 thousand dollars, big money in those days, these light skinned negroes claiming Thomas Jefferson as a parent, these men set up a state that oppressed and robbed a land of many different tribes, faiths, and languages, all the while setting up a mirror of the antebellum south and a culture of privilege amidst want. And now this nation, under this first female president of Africa, who some think is still too close to the elites who looted and left during the war is standing for election again. She is widely admired for her integrity and her strength. She has offered Liberians a path to a future, but it comes with baggage. There is a lot of hope and determination, but there are also fresh and strong memories of family killing family, little kids with assault weapons murdering and raping grandmothers and forcing baby sisters into sex slavery. Yet so many Liberians are just trying to keep their front stoops clean, who wash down the walls of their businesses every morning, who just want to get a few dollars ahead, educate their children. And hope this time the world is watching.